Wheb Driving and Enegine Shut Off Then Had to Start Again on 1999 Chevy K3500 Diesel

" The half dozen.5L No-Get-go Guide"

Where to come when your 6.5L Diesel volition non start!

- Remember -

If your diesel engine cranks but won't starting time, you lot've come to the right place. "The PMD / FSD (Pump mounted driver) is by far the #1 cause of half dozen.5L no-starts (at least 90%)." If your truck experienced random stalling like someone close the key off earlier ultimately refusing to start again, the PMD is very likely the outcome. Typically the random stalls acquired by the PMD volition become more frequent equally the failure worsens. In the beginning stages of failure, the truck tin can be immediately re-stared while the vehicle is still rolling. As the failure progresses, you will have to look longer and longer for the vehicle to re-kickoff, perhaps even to the bespeak that your diesel won't offset at all. To read more than about 6.5 PMD failure and the recommended cure, our FSD oestrus sync kit, follow the links below: For those with more in-depth issues, proceed to follow through the no-start guide one pace at a time.

Pump Mounted Driver

PMD Pre-replacement Checklist

FSD Kit

DISCLAIMER:

This 6.5 No-Start Diagnostic Guide is intended to be used by those with basic mechanical skills and common sense.If y'all lack either, and then please get out the process to those so equipped. Always habiliment safety glasses and continue clear of rotating components when cranking or starting a diesel engine. Never stand up in front of the vehicle while information technology is being cranked, and never stand in line with the fan. By working on a vehicle, you put yourself in the position of possibly receiving an injury. We cannot listing all the possibilities hither. The but person who can prevent injuries is you and the method by which this is accomplished is by anticipating and preventing hazardous situations.

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

Notation: See our FSD Heat Sync Installation Instructions for locations/pictures of the injection pump and half dozen.v PMD in the engine compartment.

1. Visual inspection solves a large percentage of issues that would have much longer to diagnose by conventional techniques.
   • Spend a minimum x minutes in the engine compartment going over everything. Practice not rush. Pay very close attention to wiring connectors and grounds.
   • There are a number of wires grounded at intake manifold bolts well-nigh the rear of the intake. Be certain that these are clean, tight and not broken.
   • There is a large round fifteen-way connector near the back of the intake manifold which joins the injection harness (which contains all the wires to the injection pump) to the main engine harness. Open this connector and ensure that the terminals are in good condition and non corroded as is common in northern trucks. If corrosion is present clean the terminals with a good electric contact cleaner. Do not spread the terminals by inserting objects into them.
   • Pay special attention to any wiring looms where they pass over other objects such equally A/C lines. Choice them up and be sure that no wires have rubbed through.
2. This no-start guide assumes that the starter volition crank the engine over rapidly enough for the engine to start. Diesels rely on the heat of compression to ignite the fuel. If the engine cranks slowly, insufficient heat will exist generated and the engine volition not start. If everything else is in skillful condition, a slow cranking six.5L diesel will start, but if there are other minor problems, a slow crank may chemical compound to create a no-start. Fixing cranking speed issues is beyond the telescopic of this article, only common suspects are battery connections (very common - start here), poor batteries, and starters.
3. This guide also assumes practiced engine mechanical status. Almost mechanical failures would exist accompanied past racket at time of failure and besides an uneven sound during cranking. Low pinch caused by wear would develop very slowly over time causing successively harder starting. If in doubt about engine mechanical condition perform an engine compression test. Engines with under 350 PSI of compression per cylinder volition take difficulty starting. This test will only be necessary in a minority of cases. To run an engine must as well exhale. In rare cases the intake system or exhaust system can become completely plugged and the engine volition not start. Catalytic converters can plug, neighbor kids can stick objects in the tailpipe, and objects can get sucked into air cleaner ducts! On engines with EGR valves, removing the EGR valve will create plenty of an exhaust opening for the engine to run if the catalytic converter is plugged.
4. Is there fuel in the tank? I don't intendance what the fuel gauge says, and forget nearly banging on the tank. If you don't KNOW there is plenty of fuel in the tank, go buy some more than and put it in. In fact, do it anyway! You may save face later on!
5. What kind of fuel is in the tank? Gasoline will not showtime a common cold 6.5L diesel fuel - the cetane of the fuel is besides depression. Take a fuel sample and examine it - smell information technology - is it practiced diesel? In doubt? Provide the engine an alternate fuel supply or drain the tank and re-fill!
6. Do the glow plugs work? The glow plugs must all exist receiving power AND not be burned out. For instructions to check glow plugs visit our glow plug page. Even in warm conditions, vi.5L engines need practiced glow plugs to get-go well. If in doubt, plug the block heater in for at to the lowest degree 6 hours - this is a fractional cover-up for a few bad glow plugs or slightly slow cranking.
7. Is fuel getting to the injection pump? This is easy to check. Take a helper creepo the engine. While cranking, open up the "T" handle valve that drains water from the fuel filter. This valve is located near the oil filler tube and has a hose running toward the footing. Pull the hose up and place the open up end in a jar. While the truck is cranking, at that place should be a generous supply of fuel coming from the hose. If non, the virtually likely cause is a bad lift pump which is located inside the frame rail underneath the commuter's seat area.. Check for voltage to the lift pump with a exam light (again while cranking). If voltage is present, replace the pump. If voltage is non present y'all will need to trace the circuit. If the pump is running, merely non delivering fuel, bank check the following items:
   • Plugged fuel filter
   • Gelled fuel if weather condition is common cold
   • Damaged or crushed fuel lines
   • Leaks on the suction side of the pump between the pump and tank (on northern trucks the fuel sending unit often rusts out on top of the tank creating leaks)
   • Plugged pickup sock in the tank or damaged pickup unit of measurement in the tank.
   • If the fuel filter unit has recently been removed, it is possible to connect the lines improperly at the filter.
8. Is the fuel render plugged? The injection pump cannot operate with a plugged return system. The injection pump return line is located on the top of the pump and is angled sharply toward the front of the truck. Remove the render line, place a short slice of hose on the plumbing fixtures on the pump and direct information technology into a container. Re-attempt to beginning the truck.
9. Plough the ignition on and note if the service engine soon (or check engine) light comes on. If it does, this is a skilful sign that the computer is receiving ability and is functional. If it does not, then y'all must go on to cheque power and basis at the computer. This is across the scope of this article. If you have a scan tool, plug it in at this indicate and determine if you can retrieve data from the figurer. This is further confirmation that the figurer is in functional status. If yous practice not have a scanner you may still go on with the following tests as presence of the check engine light is sufficient evidence of a live figurer and the following tests will provide farther verification.
10. Disconnect the optical sensor connector from the injection pump. This is the big square black connector directly on meridian of the injection pump. Again try to start the truck. If the truck starts and runs, this ways that the optical sensor is outputting faulty information preventing the truck from starting. Past unplugging the sensor, yous put the organization into backup way and the calculator relies on information from the crankshaft position sensor. In the very unusual instance that both sensors were bad, the truck would not kickoff with the optical sensor asunder.
11. The engine shutoff solenoid is a round argent device nearly an inch in diameter and several inches high that stands at the driver's side front corner of the injection pump. Unplug the solenoid and connect a test lite beyond the two wires in the connector coming from the vehicle (Not the side coming from the solenoid). Have someone crank the engine. If the exam light lights go on to the next step. If it does not light, then y'all volition need to obtain a wiring diagram and trace the circuit.
12. You tin also unscrew the solenoid from the injection pump and apply 12 volts to it to verify that the plunger retracts. Failure of this part is rare, however.
13. At this signal, we will verify if the engine is receiving fuel. Loosen several injection lines at the injectors (19mm or three/4 inch open end wrench). Keep your hands and optics back and have someone crank the engine and sentinel for fuel to squirt from the open up lines. There will non be a large quantity of fuel, but there should be a definite squirt. A slight dribble is not acceptable. Tighten the lines and keep with diagnosis.
14. If in that location is a potential that the truck has been run out of fuel, has been sitting for a very long time, or has had the fuel system open, information technology may exist necessary to bleed the fuel system. If none of these is true of your truck, skip the following procedure.
    • First, open the fuel filter water bleed valve described earlier and crank the engine until fuel is observed flowing freely from the drain line. Secondly, loosen the injection lines at all 8 injectors. Disable the glow plugs by removing the glow plug wires, disconnecting the relay, or removing the glow plug fuse. Connect a bombardment charger to the vehicle and identify it on a medium to loftier setting (non "jump" setting). Have someone crank the engine for an extended menstruation - as long as you feel comfortable doing so without doing starter damage - usually 15 to xx seconds. Wait x minutes for the starter to cool and do it once again. After repeating the process several times, fuel should brainstorm squirting from some injection lines. Tighten up those that eject, and repeat until all lines are delivering fuel. So outset the truck after re-enabling the glow plugs.
15. Disconnect the PMD (black module on the driver's side of the injection pump nigh the size of a pack of cards.) Inspect the terminals in the connector for damage. Connect a digital voltmeter set to the DC voltage calibration with the black lead connected to a good make clean engine ground and the red lead touching the terminal continued to the light-green wire in the PMD connector. Accept your helper crank the engine and record voltage observed. It should be roughly 1.2 volts.
    • If this voltage is present, it means that the figurer is commanding the PMD and injection pump to deliver fuel - keep with diagnostics. If the voltage is non present, you lot take either a wiring or computer upshot - obtain a wiring diagram and diagnose.
16. The side by side steps check power and basis at the PMD.
    • Commencement, connect your test lite to a good clean engine ground. Touch the probe of the test lite to the pink wire terminal in the PMD connector. With the ignition on, the light should light. If not, diagnose the circuit.
    • Next, connect the Prune of your test light to 1 of the positive battery terminals making sure it has a skilful connection. Bear upon the probe of the examination light to the blackness wire in position C of the PMD connector (looking closely at one side of the PMD connector you lot will note that each wire position is lettered). The light should light. If not, there is a wiring or computer trouble. Obtain a wiring diagram and diagnose.
17. If you started at the offset, and take reached this signal with all tests passing in that location are only ii possibilities left. These are the injection pump itself and the PMD. If you programme to supervene upon the complete injection pump / PMD assembly, you may finish diagnosing after performing the next pace. To make up one's mind if the consequence lies with the PMD itself continue to the end.
18. On very rare occassions we notice that the injection pump is non beingness driven by the engine. This can be caused by a timing concatenation issue, or more normally be a sheared primal on one of several gears (ordinarily due to faulty service practices). To verify that the injection pump is turning, remove the oil filler tube. This will let you to view the front of the injection pump drive gear. Staying clear of all rotating components, have someone creepo the engine and notice gear rotation.
19. Those wishing to see if the PMD is outputting control signals to the injection pump, perform the post-obit:
    • You will demand to access the cherry-red wire in position "B" as well as the black wire in position "F" of the PMD connector with the PMD plugged back in. This can be challenging with the intake manifold installed. If the intake manifold is off, you can access the aforementioned wires much easier at the back of the injection pump by pulling off the large prophylactic kick at the very rear of the injection pump. If the intake is yet installed, read carefully to understand how to connect to the wire with the PMD plugged in. (This is as well a skillful time to note that an alternative to this examination method is to substitute a known skilful PMD. If you have the ways, consider buying one if y'all plan on owning the truck for many years - especially if y'all travel with it. Every 6.5L owner should take a spare PMD - it is not a affair of IF the original PMD will neglect, it is a matter of when, and yous will give thanks yourself a 1000000 times when the extra PMD keeps you from being stranded on a dark, cold, and rainy night.) Dorsum to connecting to the wires. Straighten out a small-scale paper clip and cut it in half. Push i of the pieces of newspaper prune into the Back of the PMD connector right aslope each wire (Postions B and F). Push the piece of paper prune gently between the safe seal and the wire. Jerk the newspaper clip and push button gently until well-nigh an inch of the newspaper clip is no longer visible. The paper clip is now touching the back of the bare metallic terminal connected to the wire. Do this for both wires.Use your ohmmeter on the continuity test setting to ensure that each paper clip is indeed making contact with the respective wire. If yous take wire piercing probes they can also be used for a more reliable connection (be sure to repair the wires after). Y'all can as well strip sections of the wire and attach short sections of wire as "examination leads."
    • At present, plug the PMD connection back in. (Yeah, it is challenging, merely be patient and proceed it foursquare and you volition go information technology.) Connect your volt meter to the two wires and set the meter to mensurate AC volts. Be sure not to let the newspaper clips brusk confronting engine ground or the PMD will be destroyed!
    • Crank the engine and detect the voltage. You should discover around 0.viii to 1.0 AC volts - this volition vary slightly with cranking speed. If this test fails, just steps 14 and 15 passed, you most probable have a bad PMD. If this examination passes, and you have followed this procedure from the commencement, and then you most probable demand an injection pump.
    • For those who came here to examination a PMD just: If you have the input signals to the PMD described in steps 14 and 15, and the PMD outputs correctly in step 18, then the PMD is at least capable of starting the truck. This does Non mean it may not after cause stalling or other bug, but it should bring the engine to life.

    RESOURCES:
    If you lot see a wiring issue and demand wiring diagrams or more diagnostic resource, the following source is recommended. ALLDATA - Professional aftermarket service info for near $27 per year access
    DISCLAIMER:
    This diagnostic process is based on years of feel diagnosing and testing the 6.5L diesel and talking with hundreds of owners. There is no possible manner nosotros could excogitate of every possible failure or combination of failures and partial failures. If you follow through this test and perform the steps EXACTLY every bit directed there is a 98% or higher probability that you will uncover the issues. Ultimately, whatever determination you brand is your responsibility. This guide is designed as an aid and is provided every bit a free service to our customers. Authentic Technical Services LLC accepts absolutely no liability for its use or misuse.

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Source: https://www.accuratediesel.com/nostart.html

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